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Sew a Market Tote Bag from Scratch — Step by Step

The tote bag is the ideal first sewing project. It has no curved seams, no zippers, no complicated closures — just straight lines, clean finishes, and an immediately useful result. It also happens to be one of the most commercially viable entry-level products for a new accessories brand.

This tutorial covers everything from cutting your fabric to the final topstitch. The finished bag measures approximately 38cm wide × 40cm tall — a practical market size that holds a week's groceries or a day's essentials comfortably. All seam allowances are included in the measurements given.

Free Pattern Download

Download the printable PDF pattern for this tutorial — A4 format, print at 100% scale.

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What You Need

Materials
  • Canvas or cotton duck fabric — 0.7m at 140cm width
  • Matching thread (polyester core-spun recommended)
  • Iron-on interfacing — 0.2m (optional, adds structure)
Tools
  • Sewing machine with standard presser foot
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Fabric scissors or rotary cutter + mat
  • Pins or sewing clips
  • Ruler and fabric marker or chalk
Fabric recommendation

For a first attempt, use a plain cotton canvas in the 280–350gsm range. It is easy to cut, feeds cleanly through a machine, and presses well. Avoid anything with a slippery finish or an open weave — these require more experience to handle cleanly.

Cutting Your Pieces

Pre-wash and press your fabric before cutting. Canvas and cotton duck will shrink slightly in the first wash — pre-washing ensures your finished bag stays at the correct dimensions after the first use.

Cut List — All measurements include 1cm seam allowance
Main Body 38cm × 82cm Cut 1
Handles 8cm × 60cm Cut 2
Interfacing (optional) 36cm × 80cm Cut 1

Mark all pieces on the wrong side of your fabric. Cut cleanly along your lines — a rotary cutter against a metal ruler produces the most accurate edges, but fabric scissors work perfectly well on straight lines if you take your time.

Construction — Step by Step

01

Apply interfacing (optional)

If you are using iron-on interfacing, fuse it to the wrong side of the main body piece now, following the manufacturer's instructions. Centre the interfacing so it sits 1cm in from each edge. Press firmly with steam for a secure bond.

Interfacing gives the bag a structured, stand-up silhouette. Skip this step if you prefer a softer, more relaxed drape.

02

Make the handles

Take one handle piece and fold both long edges in to meet at the centre of the wrong side, creating a strip approximately 2.5cm wide. Press firmly. Fold the strip in half along the centre crease so you have a clean, four-layer handle 2cm wide. Press again.

Topstitch along both long edges of the handle, 2mm from the edge. Use a longer stitch length (3–3.5mm) for a clean, professional look on canvas. Repeat for the second handle.

Tip: If your machine struggles with the thickness at the folded ends, use a walking foot or help the fabric through by hand-turning the wheel for the first few stitches.
03

Attach the handles

Fold the main body piece in half widthwise so the two short ends meet. This fold line is the bottom of your bag. Mark the centre of each short end (top edges) with a pin.

On the right side of the fabric, pin each handle 10cm from the side edges of the top opening, with the raw ends of the handle aligned with the raw edge of the fabric. The handles should be pointing downward, toward the fold. Each handle end should extend 2cm past the raw edge.

Machine baste the handles in place at 0.5cm from the raw edge — this is a temporary stitch to hold them while you sew the side seams.

04

Sew the side seams

With right sides together and the handles sandwiched inside, sew both side seams at 1cm seam allowance. Start at the top edge and sew straight down to the fold at the bottom. Backstitch at both ends.

Press the seam allowances open. If your fabric frays easily, finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or serger before pressing.

Tip: At this point, reach inside the bag and pull it right-side-out to check that both side seams are straight and the handles are sitting correctly. It's easier to correct any issues now than after the hem is finished.
05

Finish the top hem

Turn the bag right-side-out. At the top opening, fold the raw edge down 1cm toward the inside of the bag and press. Fold down again 3cm and press firmly — this creates a clean double-fold hem that encases the raw edge completely.

Pin or clip in place. Topstitch around the entire top opening, 2.5cm from the folded edge. Add a second row of topstitching 5mm above the first for a reinforced, professional finish.

At the handle attachment points, sew a small rectangle of reinforcement stitching — sew a 2cm × 1.5cm rectangle, then an X through it. This is the most stress-bearing point of the bag and the reinforcement prevents early failure.

06

Final press

Give the finished bag a thorough press with a hot steam iron. Pay particular attention to the side seams and the top hem — pressing the seams flat from the outside gives the bag a crisp, professional silhouette that hand-pressing alone cannot achieve.

Your bag is complete. The finished dimensions should be approximately 36cm wide × 40cm tall with 58cm handles — a comfortable shoulder drop for most people.

Variations and Next Steps

Once you are comfortable with the basic construction, there are several straightforward modifications that increase the bag's functionality and perceived value.

Scaling to production

If you have made a sample you're happy with and want to move to production — whether 20 bags or 200 — the process starts with a detailed brief and a cost calculation. We can manufacture this exact bag design, with your branding, at our Agadir atelier. The 100 MAD cost calculation fee gets you a precise unit cost within 48 hours.

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From sample to production run — submit your brief and we'll get you a precise quote within 48 hours.

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